January 10 is a national holiday to
celebrate traditional religions of Benin – namely, Vodun. I joined two of my
close-mates and a HCN (“Host Country National”) for the festivities at a nearby
mayor’s office. The HCN is affectionately known by several volunteers in my
region as “The Voodoo Man.” Voodoo Man is one of those awesome HCNs who made
friends with a PCV once and now says “hey, you’re a foreigner, and there’s some
cool stuff in this country – let me share it with you, for nothing in return
but your company!” I love it when I meet people like this, and I have had some
of my best culture-sharing adventures here with them. Voodoo Man is a priest
and authority figure of a regional vodun cult. He often invites PCVs to witness
ceremonies, and many volunteers have gone to him to receive scarification – a
common body modification practice in Benin, like tattooing, that denotes your
heritage and has spiritual (or souvenir-ical) significance.
When I arrived, I found my party
with 3rd row seats on stage! From there, we sat among the Voodoo
Man’s colleagues and important kings from the region, and we got to witness all
sorts of costumes, dancing, and music!
Like most clothing in Benin, the costumes of these voodoo
spirits and traditional medicine man were incredibly colorful and elaborate!
These haystack looking things are called “Zangbetos.” They
are spirits, and their apprentices will dismantle them to prove there is nobody
underneath, just a talisman or animal of some sort.
When someone performs for you, dancing or drumming, it’s
custom to place money on their forehead. These guys made bank today.
Some of the costumes have almost a Tawainese look to them. And quite a juxtaposition with the military guy with the club in his hand. Not sure I want to know what that one guys is holding (that looks like a mis-shapen shrunken head!) Love the video. Again - thanks so much for sharing. It is great to be able to see a bit of what life is like there.
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