While Peace
Corps predicts the first three months in site to be the loneliest and most challenging,
I fared pretty well with the “integration period.” Now, as life in Benin
becomes more routine and less exotic, I think I’m hitting a 7th-month
slump… Here’s a 2-days-in-the-life story from last week to exhibit how some
days, I’m pushed right up to the edge.
I’m working on some grant applications for my
upcoming girls’ camp, so I needed to print some paperwork. Finding the
appropriate technology to do so in village is often difficult, but after asking
around all morning, I located two equipped boutiques. I waited a half hour at
the first one, while the dinosaur of a computer tried to recognize my USB key.
After no luck, I took my key and headed to option #2…
Upon arrival, the owner of the shop greeted me by
saying “What do you want? If you’re just here to say hello, I don’t want that.
What did you bring me?” Despite the rudeness of this greeting (which is extremely
out of character for the Beninese, who are generally very welcoming and
hospitable), the part that bugged me most was the last question: “What did you
bring me?” I’ve recently decided this to be my least favorite phrase here in
Benin, trumping even “give me money,” “are you married?” and the yovo song. Being my father’s daughter
(and therefore an enthusiastic proponent of quality customer service!), I was
tempted to say “screw you, jackass!” and walk away. But also being in village, with limited printing options and a
reputation to uphold as a Peace Corps volunteer, I forced myself to say “I have
brought you good health... And I want to print something.” The first answer is
a generally accepted response to the question-from-hell, but peoples’ faces
still fall like they don’t believe the yovo doesn’t have money or presents for
them. Whatever.
I waited another
long while before my USB came up, only to see that attempt #1 had in fact
recognized my USB after all… at least enough to corrupt all the old files and
replace them with porn. My virus ridden key was polluted with folders entitled
“dirty,” “XXX,” and “Porn!!!” warranting many odd looks from the already
judgmental proprietor. And it didn’t help that the folder I kept trying /
failing to open was entitled “Girls” – as in girls’ camp, girls’ club,
etc. A sense of humor and an appreciation for the ironic are all too important
in this life I’m living... So I admitted defeat and trudged home, only to be
accosted by the village drunkard, who followed me half way home repeating “What
do you have for me? Give me something. Yovo, yovo, why don’t you want to give
me a present? You are selfish...”
Day two, I headed out early for a 9 AM meeting with
the mayor. At 1:15, he showed up. This is, unfortunately, typical for the
Beninese, though I suppose I expected the Mayor’s office to run differently?
When he did finally get there, he spent the majority of our meeting scolding me
for having lived in his commune for so long and not yet having stopped by to
greet him (even though “stopping by” is a half hour, 1000 CFA zem ride away –
far and expensive by village standards). As if he would have had time for me!
Not only was he 4 hours late for a scheduled meeting, the meeting itself was a
circus… People kept coming in and out of his office, asking questions, pushing
their own agendas, or just saying “I heard you had a yovo in your office and
wanted to greet her…” He also received over 20 calls and texts, answering them
all in my presence (again, not out of character for Benin). I calmly but
sternly asked him if this was typical of a professional workplace in Benin. His
response: “There’s no problem! I’m listening to you!” all the while looking at
his phone. Interactions like that make me feel like two years will never be
enough to contribute to the development of Benin, let alone finish a sentence
with the mayor.
Icing on the
cake that day: when I got home, my zem driver raised the price upon arrival
(one always agrees on the price and
destination before getting on the zem! Raising the price once you get there is
NOT ok, and Beninese people won’t put up with that – when it happens, it’s
plain and clear prejudice). He said “you’re white; you can give me more than
that.” I told him how bad that was of him to do, but he continued to bother me.
I was so fed up and tired from the bullshit of the day that I forfeited my
principles, tossed him an extra 200 CFA, and walked away. He called after me: “My
dear, are you married?”
Aside from the
many culture clashes I’ve been having lately, this is also the longest period
of time I have ever gone without seeing kin… Thankfully, the ‘rents are on
their way! Starting tonight, I will be taking a 12 day vacation to show Benin
to my parents. I’m hoping their visit will give me a break from routine and
some fresh eyes to appreciate the good things about Benin once again. The
agenda includes a visit to my village, a tour of Pendjari Wildlife Park, and a
marathon in Parakou. This will be a lot of new territory for me as well, so
I’ll be sure to update about our adventures in the coming weeks!
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